Selected
Memoirs of a Drifter
August
16, 1996 : at work in a bar in Portland, Oregon
Boredom,
extreme boredom. I am getting paid seven dollars an hour for my time,
11.6 cents per minute, that took me about thirty cents of time to figure
out. Drunks yell in the background and the blues plays on the radio.
I should find something better to do with my time.
October
3, 1996 : car is impounded for lack of insurance
I
can't get along in this society of fools. They took my car away from
me tonight. My 1964 Chevy, Biscayne is gone. I can no longer get to
work. How am I supposed to pay for insurance if I can't get to work?
Someone will pay for this. I have no more use for this society and their
rules. I am insignificant. My life is a second out of a century. There
is no justice. I am filled with rage.
October
9, 1996 : bus stop
I
am sitting at a bus stop waiting for a bus that may never come. It is
funny how drastically things can change in a short period of time. Last
week I had a car, a job, a license, and a purpose. This week I just
wander around aimlessly walking and thinking. I haven't done much with
the past twenty-three years. I guess learning to write in this book
is something worth while. I want to leave the United States and go some
place further......(there is my bus)
December
11, 1996 : airplane
I
am flying in a DC-9 to do the holiday visiting of friends and relatives.
On my left is some one's grandmother, she is nice. No life up here,
just a dessert of cotton balls. I am fortunate to have a window seat.
I quit my mundane job as a cook, gave up my room in Portland,
and sold or gave away everything I didn't really need. I will return
in a month to tie up any loose ends, but now I am traveling. I
finally saved enough money to get out of the country. In mid January
I plan to go to Australia on an adventure to see if the whole planet
is as fucked as it appears to be.
I like to be a spontaneous world traveler. I have seen 47 of
the 50 states and didn't find any place where I wanted to settle down.
Every place has positive and negative attributes, but I don't feel like
I belong anywhere. The problem with being a nomad is that you can't
take all your stuff with you. Material possessions are not that important
to me. I want to gain skills, knowledge, and experiences more than expensive
consumer status symbols. Today's society is centered around greed and
money. There are too many people to live off the land. Humans are destroying
the environment. Sometimes I am ashamed to be human. One of my good
friends said he hoped that I didn't get killed on my journey. I told
him I didn't care if I got killed, we all die sometime.
January
25, 1997 : airport
Minneapolis,
St. Paul, -6 degrees Fahrenheit. I am waiting for my plane that has
apparently become frozen. I'm on my way back to Portland after an extended
journey to Virginia, North Carolina, and Kentucky. I have not written
in a month just thinking a lot. I visited many old friends who seem
to have settled into a very boring life. I spent time with my parents
which is more awkward than it should be. I don't know when I'll see
them again. As soon as I can get a ticket I am off for Australia...
(gate change, gotta run)
Two hours late, and flying into head winds of 110 miles an hour
somewhere over Montana, I realize that this flask of whiskey is far
to small. No lights are visible on the ground due to either desolation
or cloud cover.
February
27, 1997 : bus
Good
bye Portland. The Green Tortoise is a bus, but not your conventional,
straight backed, uncomfortable, unfriendly sort of bus. The bus is filled
with beds and so far it is good. Most of the people are of the adventurous
traveling sort. I was looking out the window at two pretty girls while
waiting to depart from downtown. They got on the bus and are sitting
right in front of me, world travelers from Tasmania. I am glad to finally
be off. Another guy sitting beside me is from Japan. It is hard to understand
him, but I think he's going to Mexico. The two girls from Tasmania are
writing in their journals as well. It is raining, as it always is in
Portland. The wipers battle the rain. The engine hums monotonously beneath
me as we roll away.
I am slightly nervous about what the hell I am doing. Portland,
San Francisco, Los Angles, Fiji, New Zealand, and finally to Sydney
is my path. I have all my money on me. I hope I don't get mugged or
robbed. Be careful was the last advice of most all of my friends. If
I was being careful I would probably have a crappy job in Virginia and
not have seen much of the world at all.
The bus is refueling now. Truckers refuel with diesel and coffee,
a girl enjoys Taco Bell food, and I ponder my existence while chewing
stale gum. A major rainbow just appeared outside the bus, that must
be a good omen. We proceed to San Francisco.
Well, the bus has broken down two hours outside of Portland. All
part of the adventure. I wish I could help.
Thursday,
March 6, 1997 : SF, CA
I
picked up this rock today on the beach in San Francisco. It was a beautiful
rock. Bright green, marbleized, sparkling in the sun with a color I
had never seen before. So being a small rock, I grabbed it up and put
it in my pocket to have for later. Sitting in a friend's apartment just
now I pulled it out and found it to be very dull gray and uninteresting.
Perhaps I should have left it on the beach.
Now I sit in my friend .s third floor apartment viewing life though
this glass of bourbon. The bottom is round and the sides are octagonal,
a bit of clear brown liquid runs forward toward my mouth with rounded
ice cubes. I crunch some of the smaller ice cubes between my teeth.
I focus through the distortion of the glass on the surrounding room.
My friends chat about things that don't interest me. "Libby Duratuff
USA" reads backward through the base of my glass. It is empty. I am
numb. I think I will refill it.
Down the hall to the left is the refrigerator. I remove the last
three ice cubes and fill my glass half way up with Jim Beam and then
pour the last of some generic cola on top. My bladder is full. The urine
that I excrete is clear and leaves no evidence of using the toilet
at all, but still I flush and return to a chair with no legs.
Monday,
March 10, 1997 : LAX
The
Boeing 747 is an excellent example of good engineering. This is the
biggest plane I have ever ridden in. Nine seats stretch across the cabin
and there is also an upstairs section. Television screens give interesting
bits of data such as, ground speed 834 km/hr, distance from departure,
air temperature, and a map shows our plane and it's position as it travels.
The flight crew bustles about preparing to bring us free cocktails.
After many hours of city buses and waiting, I made my way across
Los Angles and waited some more in a line at the airport. I checked
my bags and had over priced food in a cool restaurant that had the decor
of the Jetson's. I took a nap on the floor of the terminal and finally
boarded my plane. Flying out of LAX at night was spectacular. In the
city millions of light faded out of sight as we soared over the black
expanse of the Pacific Ocean. In five hours I'll be in Hawaii, the farthest
I've ever been.
Friday,
March 14, 1997 : Fiji
I
was sitting here enjoying life greatly. Water sloshes back and forth
in both of my ears. The silhouette of a palm tree waves in the breeze
against a sky of purple and orange. The temperature is perfect for walking
around naked 24 hours a day and 365 days a year. I was enjoying this
so much that I felt I should write about it. So I got my journal and
started to write, now mosquitoes are eating me alive.
Wednesday,
March 26, 1997 : Australia
I
haven't been writing, I've been too busy living. I'm here and I want
to just keep going Further, but my money is dwindling away. Things cost
twice as much here. I hope to find work under the table as I don't have
a work visa. After a week in Sydney I hitched a ride North, which is
like heading South in the northern hemisphere. All week I have been
in Byron Bay, the most easterly point of Australia.
Easter
Sunday 1997 : Australia
On
Thursday I kept feeling like there was something I was supposed to do,
there was. Banks are closed until Tuesday. All my money is in US currency.
So I have been living on the beach all week. It is nice unless it rains.
The sun shines on my back at this picnic table. Some of my skin is peeling
from too much sun. Life is good.
Sometimes I forget I am in Australia. I could be in just another
North American city. They have the same shit over here. But then I will
see an animal or something I've never seen before. Things cost twice
as much money, but you earn twice as much too. The toilets have two
buttons on top of them, one for a half flush and one for a whole flush,
what a good idea. Prostitution is legal, bars sell beer to go, spiders
are huge, women are beautiful and topless, words are shorter, the sun
is brighter, the ocean is clean, the metric system is used, you drive
on the left, two dollar coins, no pennies, tax included, no tipping,
didgeridos, kangaroos, sharks, crocodiles, vegamite, aboriginals, and
tropical plants to name a few things.
April
10, 1997 : Kingscliff
It's
hard to leave Byron Bay, but I finally have. My traveling companions
from Canada and Britain flaked out on me. They owed me about $30 and
had some of my stuff in their car. Apparently they sold the car and
went home. I should have selected better companions. After three weeks
at Cape Byron, today I woke up early, packed my bags, checked out, made
a cardboard sign that reads "FURTHER" , and stuck my thumb out on the
road. A nice lady picked me up and drove me North a while. She stopped
and picked up her daughter along the way too. Her daughter gave me her
phone number and said I could stay there if I wanted. I've been following
the path of least resistance but I have to keep my motivation.
April
24, 1997 : enroute to Airlie
I
met two Americans that were heading North so I joined them. We stayed
on Great Keppel island for 3 days and 2 nights camping on the beach.
With the exception of biting insects it was the best. It has been raining
lately so I'm glad to have a steady ride. The little Mitsubishi
Sigma purrs though each gear as we pass between the tall fields of sugar
cane. Clouds hang on the surrounding hills and the air is thick and
sticky like the sugar cane. Credence Clearwater Revival plays on the
tape player that can't rewind, only fast forward, just like life.
May
22, 1997 : Cairns
My
journal went on a trip without me because I left it in the Sigma, but
it was returned to me in a couple of weeks. I got a job riding a 3-wheeled
bike as a taxi. I rent the bike and what ever money I make in fares
is mine. This is the silliest job I have ever had, but the money is
okay. My job involves sitting outside of nightclubs and shuttling the
drunks around. I went scuba diving for the first time on the Great Barrier
Reef. It was amazing. I would like to work on a ship. It is nice to
be at sea floating many miles from land. I thought I would like the
Aboriginal people but they seem to be mostly savages. I was taking two
guys home from a club, my first night at this job. They were wasted,
as you usually are when coming home from a club. Two Aboriginals were
trying to break into a pay phone with a rock and my passengers were
yelling at them. Ten more Aboriginal youths were around the corner and
attacked us. Both guys got beat up a bit and ran off with out paying
me. This left me trying to reason with the twelve angry black faces
that were surrounding me and the bike. Some of them were small and not
much of a threat to me, but a few of them were quite large and angry.
They thought I called them "black cunts" ,a common derogatory expression
in Australia. I tried to explain I was just working and had nothing
against them. I let three of them punch me before I decided to fight
back. I could have fought all of them, but I had no rage, no motivation,
no hate. Blood was running down my face but I felt no pain, they were
young and couldn't hit too hard. This was all happening in the middle
of a major intersection at 10 PM. Cars stopped, horns honked, people
yelled, and one man tried to help me out but got his nose broken as
he was getting out of his car. There was a girl with the guys who were
trying to kill me and she was screaming for them to stop. I wouldn't
be knocked down despite their efforts and I punched one of them in the
mouth who was trying to steal the bike. It felt strange, I didn't want
to fight them. When I started hitting back they ran off into the darkness
one by one. I was left standing in the road with a torn shirt and a
bloody face. I got back on the bike and rode away. It could have been
worse, they didn't steal anything.
Aboriginals were here first. White men came and invaded their
land and tried to assimilate their culture. I'm sad this attack planted
racist ideas in my head. I don't think the natives are very evolved
and I no longer trust them. I'll be leaving Cairns soon, must go Further.
June
2, 1997 : Cape Tribulation
A
few days ago I decided to leave Cairns in the middle of the night. The
time was about 3 AM and I was more drunk than I realized. There was
very little traffic on the road at this hour but the first car that
came picked me up. Three rides later I was in Port Douglas at four something
in the morning. I fell asleep on a rocky ledge overlooking the sea.
When I awoke in the morning with a hangover and the sun trying to burn
a hole in my head, I realized that I left my toothbrush, towel, and
other things in Cairns and had to go back for them.
June 6, 1997 : Cape Tribulation
It
has been raining everyday, I guess that is why they call it a rain forest.
It is ten o'clock at night and there isn't enough light to write by.
I have made sort of a candle out of some chunks of wax and a rolling
paper. Bandicoots are fury little marsupial rodents. They visit nightly.
I've seen more snakes here than anywhere, but I like snakes as long
as they don't bite me. I've fallen in love with a blond woman from London
named Anna. Tiny drops of water litter my paper and gleam in the candlelight.
Monday,
June 9, 1997 : Cape Tribulation
I
lose. I've gone Further and it wasn't that great. I got older too. Bad
luck is what I've got, and maybe a fractured heart. Three days ago I
went for a walk. I brought my book and some water. My tent mate from
England came for a walk too. We hitched a ride quite on accident. The
ride kept going, all the way to Cooktown where there was a celebration
of Captain Cook's landing. There are no paved roads this far North,
mostly four wheel drive tracks. It was also my birthday so we drank,
we drank like there was no tomorrow. We passed out down by the river.
Surprisingly no crocodiles ate us while we slept.
The next day we awoke in the middle of a reenactment of Captain
Cook's landing feeling horrible, we decided to get back, 200 kilometers.
We walked. We walked, and no one picked us up. We walked in the hot
sun through nowhere. Cars passed and we walked. We were walking in the
wrong direction. Finally a truck stopped, it was the police. They didn't
believe us when we told them where we were going because we were heading
the opposite direction. In our confusion that morning we had chosen
the wrong road and were heading into the desert, not the rain forest.
They searched us for no apparent reason, and found 0.2 of a gram
of marijuana in my bag that some one had given me at camp. They took
me to jail. Many hours later I was released with the stipulation of
showing up in court the next day.
My court date was today. In Cooktown, Australia someone called
for Niles Randall Harrison to stand, and I was in the back of a pickup
truck laying down, holding on for dear life, on some of the worst roads
anywhere, headed in the opposite direction. I am a wanted man. I try
to do the right thing but it all goes wrong.
I came back to Cape Tribulation for the woman I love, but while
I was in jail she decided to leave with another man. I have $220 to
my name. Distance does not solve many problems. The world is too
small. I am sitting on the back porch of the bar, it is raining again.
I was just watching everyone drinking, laughing, and talking. Watching
through the glass with a blank stare. My father told me I couldn't run
away from my problems when I left Oregon. Now I am running away from
Queensland because of a warrant. The Man is always bringin' me down.
People are the same everywhere.
Anna told me she loved me today, but she is not coming with me.
"I love you too.", I replied. I can count the number of people I have
said that to on one hand, and I was lying to a few of them. I've got
an empty spot inside me that I keep trying to fill with alcohol, drugs,
sex, music, art, sports or anything but it has no bottom.
June
19, 1997 : Cairns again
I
hate to come back the same way I went. That is exactly what I am doing
though. I must escape from the Queensland police. Hitchhiking is no
good. I spoke to a lawyer today and if I get caught I'll do a month
in jail no questions asked. I'm not home sick, because I don't have
a home. I am almost completely out of money now. I called my father
to send me some. This is the dry season up North. Dry season my ass.
A little black cloud follows me where ever I go. A steady Portland,
Oregon kind of rain is falling right now.
June
27, 1997 : Sydney
I
successfully avoided being captured in Queensland. For seven days I
was in a camper van with a heroin addict, his girlfriend, and their
roommate who were moving to Sydney. The trip was more fun in retrospect
than it was at the time. I stayed in the back of the van and read, or
talked to Greg about his addiction to heroin. He has been on smack for
the last five years. He is a nice guy, it is sad.
So I am back at the Jolly Swagman hostel in Kings Cross, one of
the seedy areas in Sydney. I said good-bye to my traveling companions
with that, .I'll never see you again, have a nice life feeling.
It has rained on me for the last twenty days straight. Rain seems
to follow me, maybe I could have a promising career in the irrigation
of crops for farmers. I have been keeping to myself lately, sometimes
not speaking to anyone all day. Hostels are full of young travelers
who should be a lot happier than they are. I should be a lot happier
than I am. I think I have discovered that things are the same everywhere.
I might cut this trip short. It is winter here and summer in the States
now. I have five hundred dollars in the bank right now, that won't get
me far. Work has not looked promising here, but that could just be due
to my depression.
In Australia you can use a pay phone with no money and when someone
answers it will hang up, silly feature. Pigeons thrive in big cities
better than people do. They call people from England pomies for Prisoners
of Mother England. Any long word is shortened and ie is added to the
end of it. A mosquito is just a mozie here.
I was having another quiet night and my roommate Jon convinced
me to go out for a drink. We met two pomie girls. Louise Jackson was
the girl who came over to me and said I looked depressed. "Sorry,
I'm trying not to let it show." I replied. I guess she was depressed
too. We danced and kissed and drank and made each other feel like things
really were not that bad. Her twin sister Sara was not that interested
in my friend Jon and he left carrying the weight of the sandbags of
depression that I had been wearing.